I have been in Kenya for three weeks now. I’ve
settled into a stable routine at the office in Kianyaga. I know my way decently
around much of the town: which places serve the best chapatti; the butcher with
the best cut of beef; the vegetable and fruitstand lady with the best selection
of produce; what types of food can be found in stores and the ones I need to
stock up on during my occasional visits to Nairobi (Vinnegar and Tabasco). I’ve grown used to living without a fridge and
only buying perishables which I plan on eating in the next few hours. My
weekday routine consist of waking up before 8 am. I can’t wake up any later
than that because work starts at that time. Lucky for me, I live in the office.
My field officers have proven a pleasure to work with. I look forward to
knowing them better over the next year.
The town itself is nothing special and is
probably typical of most lower-middle income countries. Kirinyaga is definitely
not the poorest region of Kenya. Located in the highlands to the south of Mount
Kenya, the red clay soil is abundantly fertile. Banana and avocados are
everywhere. The town is surrounded by homesteads—“shambas”—usually no more than
a few acres but from what I’ve seen they produce enough for farming families
enough to get buy. At least this part of the country has passed the threshold
of agricultural self-sufficiency long ago. Destitute to the point of starvation
it is not.
For at least the next two weeks, I intend
to focus on getting into the groove with office procedures. I have not had much
time to explore as a tourist and for good reason. My predecessor, who is about
to wrap up her 13 month stay, will be here for a couple more days. I’ve aimed
to learn as much as I can from her while she is still here. I have tremendous
respect and admiration for her as she seems to know this town inside out. She knows
basic Kikuyu and has picked up on the area’s cultural nuances. She’s a firm
negotiator. Though not dictatorial, she does know where to draw the line with
the staff. I can see they respect her a lot.
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