Sunday, June 21, 2015

Beautiful Things - Part 1


This is probably the oldest tree in town. I’ve asked the townspeople and gotten varying ages from 150 to 400 years. Either way, it has been around before any living human on this planet was born. It is majestic and motherly, creating a life-nurturing environment in its shade. 

Sunday, June 14, 2015

(Hydro) Power to the People

This Saturday was beautiful and productive. Aside from examining the economic impact of access to the judiciary, my research center has also tried for years to conduct a randomized control trial on the effects of access to electricity. In 2008, we had managed to mobilize a community of farmers north of Kianyaga to fund and help built a hydroelectric dam, that would generate enough electricity for 200 households. Soon after its construction, the custom-built generator broke down and the entire site has been in a state of disrepair ever since. The head of the organization with whom we had partnered with (let's call him Robert) had proven very difficult to work with. Despite failing to come up with any feasible plans for reviving the project, he had been extremely reluctant to led us look for solutions that didn't involve his expertise.

The community members had understandably grown frustrated with us. After having contributed their hard-earned money as well as their manual labor, we had so far left them with nothing to show; just a dam whose generator is toast.

My boss was about to give up hope on the whole electricity idea until his stay here last month. We decided to make an offer Robert, essentially buying out his stake in the organization. In crude terms, we offering him money to get out of the way. Robert was a proud man with a reputation in the community to uphold. We were not confident in our odds.

As luck would have it, Robert agreed to give up his share in the project. We were now free to revamp this project on our own terms. The job will be a tall order: although the physical dam itself is fine, we need new generator and turbine, as well as electric wiring and poles which were never constructed. Our goal is to generate about 20 KW of power.

On Saturday we drove to one to of the micro-hydroelectric generators Benson had built north of Niyeri (about 2 hours from Kianyaga). The weather was clear and sunny, the roads smooth, and the landscape breathtaking. The power station was located in a scenic, lush, and fertile valley that felt hidden away from all the world's troubles. There was no cellular reception but that just added to the area's secluded mystique. The power came from a stream gushing down the valley's slopes, with water diverted into a 4 inch pipe that went into a reversed water pump which in turn spun a modified motor thus generating enough electricity for twenty farming families.

To me, Benson exemplifies the best the region has to offer. He is an engineer, in it not for the money, but for for the advancement of his people. I am told of many projects he undertakes in Central Kenya at a very modest consulting fee plus the cost of applicable parts.  He has also built mills for farmers to grind their corn, wheat, and flour. Farmers who stand to benefit supply all the labor for free labor.

The hydro project near Nieryi is instructive. It was built over ten years ago and has paid for itself many times over. The twenty farming families pooled their savings to pay for the initial construction of the hydro generator. Not a bad investment for free electricity for life!The quality speaks for itself. After decade of 24/7 use, the original motor (which itself was bought used), pump, and load controller are still in use. I am told the only maintenance involves oiling the motor. The valley shields the electrified houses from powerful winds and although some poles have bent through the years, no wires have been knocked out since the project's inception.


The modified motor connected to reverse water pump





Paradise




We were fortunate enough to meet a family who took part in the dam's construction and are now reaping the rewards. I met the patriarch of the family, along with his 85 year old father. They seemed so peaceful and relaxed. Their smiles revealed a mouth full of healthy white teeth (something I have also taken as a proxy for well-being). They laugh, gratefully amused at my broken Kikuyu, as we spent a few minutes visiting their home. For wallpaper, they have used old election posters featuring prominent Kikuyu politicians (the Kenyattas, and Kikabi make multiple appearances). There is even a poster of Barrack Obama. They have a modest television set with a DVD player as well lighting in all their rooms. When I asked the head of the family the biggest benefit electricity has given his family, he tells me it is in the children's studying. No longer are they confined at night to studying beside the dimness and hazardous fumes of kerosene lamps. He chuckles, noting that he also makes a bit of money on the side by letting neighbors charge their cellphones.

Myself, along with interns (also from Canada) are taken aback by the way of life in this valley paradise. It would appear that electricity was the final piece in the puzzle to self-sufficiency. The farms are abundant with a variety of crops with an equally diverse types of livestock. One intern tells me that he would seriously think about retiring here. It is 25 degrees with just the right amount of breeze and sunlight. I wish I could come back here with a blanket spend the whole day lying down and enjoying the natural beauty.

The road trip itself was memorable. Kenyans have a love affair with country music and Dolly Parton in particular. The three of us mazungus, with Benson, his partner, and another friend of his made six in a car that could comfortably hold only four. Nevertheless we managed to endure the cramped conditions in part due to the warm conversation coupled the the country tunes that seemed to fit the area rather well.

Sunday, June 7, 2015

Sundays in Kianyaga

Our office is one of the few workplaces in town with a 5 day work week...for the field officers at least. As project manager, I've quickly discovered I still need to put in a solid 6 says so as to ensure things to don't fly off the the rails. Like most full time workers in Kenya, my Saturdays are just another work day...perhaps with the chance of leaving a little early. For almost everyone, Sunday is the only day of the week away from work.

Religion is a big part of people's lives. I have been to about a dozen people's homes so far and have yet to see a Kenyan living room without either a picture of Jesus or a cross. The Mount Kenya region is almost entirely Christian and I have seen church's from a wide array of denominations: Catholics, Pentecostals, United, Jehovah's Witnesses, Anglican, and so forth.  I have made a habit of the attending Kianayga's Anglican church because its only a 5 minute walk from my place and it is one of the few places of worship around here with a weekly English service. English service is from 8:30 am to 10 am and is aimed at the younger crowd. A little after 10, the Kikuyu service begins, lasting around 3 to 4 hours. The English service gives the younger generation a chance to pray and practice their faith without having to go through marathon of hymns and sermons.

When I wake up on Sundays,I usually do not feel like going. However I always leave the service feeling calm, cool, and collected. The service is very lively and is similar to Black American churches minus the gospel choir. There is however a musical ensemble comprising an electric guitar, drums, keyboard, and a musically gifted young man doing the vocals. Most of the hymns involve a good mount of physical movement, be it swaying your body, clapping your hands, or raising your arms. It is as if there is some collective spirit in the air that gets into your soul and makes you want to participate and sing and move your body.

I don't feel like going into an ideological debate about the teachings espoused during the service (a couple weeks back, the sermon was on the dangers of same sex marriage). In my opinion, it would be extremely condescending and inappropriate for a guest in another country to complain about such things. It is the unity and community spirit that I find so compelling. A church packed with three hundred teenagers and young adults on a Sunday morning is something you'll be hard pressed to find in Canada.

The rest of my Sundays are spent trying to do the most relaxing and least mentally or physically taxing tasks. That's what the rest of the week is for! I will usually be either reading, meditating, or visiting other people's places after service. I have almost finished Dubliners by James Joyce. Apparently, the Irish in 1900s took their tea in a similar manner to that of Kenyans today. Who wudda thunk it?